Near the Spielweg Romantik Hotel in the middle of the snow-covered Black Forest we meet the restaurant´s chef Johannes Schneider and Michael Wickert, the owner of Glut & Späne Lachsfisch Räucherei & Manufaktur. Together we go on a culinary journey where fresh fish meets natural ingredients out of the Black Forest and unique smoking aromas. And, of course, on freshly sharpened knives.
Fishing &
Collceting
In the early afternoon, we arrived at the Spielweg Romantik Hotel. However, the path does not lead us to its restaurant, but further south to a nearby river, where we meet chef and hunter Johannes Schneider. There we also meet Michael Wickert, who specialises in refining and smoking salmon fish of the highest quality with his manufactory Glut und Späne. To do this, he uses traditional Black Forest recipes with herbs, spices and fir shavings. Together with Johannes, whose cuisine is as well based on ingredients from the local Black Forest, we prepare smoky, spicy delicacies from fresh fish, fire, wood and shavings.
Down by the river, Michael throws out his fishing rod and gazes with concentration at the water. In the meantime, we head into the neighbouring forest with Johannes and look for ingredients for our special smoking project. On our list are hazelnut and fir branches, which we cut with sharp outdoor knives. The hazelnut branches we use prepare the fish in our homemade smoker later. From the fir branches we cook a special, flavourful „Black Forest tea“. Back at the river we arrive just at the right time. Michael has skillfully caught a brown trout and we bring the catch ashore together.
Hot Smoking Fish
Fish, Fire, Wood and shavings
Smoking in the Natural Oven
After we have prepared all the ingredients, we build our natural oven. To do this, we lay out shavings in a hole in the ground, position wood over it and slowly set the fire. Then we boil a Black Forest tea from the collected fir branches and are surprised by the extraordinary taste. Meanwhile, Michael and Johannes prepare the brown trout for smoking, using only salt. From the hazelnut branches we build a tent shape construction over the fire, in the middle of which we attach the fish with a hook. Then we cover the tent with fir branches, which allows the brown trout to smoke slowly underneath. The shavings in the blaze make the smoke more intense and, together with the firewood of fir, alder and beech, give the fish aromas and flavors. Furthermore, the alder gives the brown trout its golden smoke colour.
NATURE & SMOKE FLAVOURS
FISH DISHES NEWLY INTERPRETED
In addition to the brown trout, we prepare a flamed salmon on cedar wood as well as a rainbow trout over the open fire. While we enjoy the salmon trout marinated with gin and Black Forest spices, we cook a delicious fish soup from the brown and the rainbow trouts. The combination of Michael’s smoking and Johannes‘ cooking skills has introduced our palates to entirely new taste ideas. And we are convinced that our home Black Forest is the perfect place for culinary voyages of discovery and smoking ventures.
TIME AND EXPERIENCE
FOR THE BEST SMOKING AROMAS
„Artisanal smoking differs significantly from the industrial method and requires more than the push of a button: a lot of skill, the best wood shavings and years of experience. Whereas the focus was more on preservation in the past, today it’s all about enjoyment. In addition to high-quality regional fish, smoking requires above all sufficient time“
– Michael Wickert